HAPPY CAMPER, 1964

    This hammock bivouac photograph on the Dihedral Wall helps me remember how much I loved climbing El Capitan, and how much I enjoyed this route.  Clean as a whistle, the Dihedral Wall sends endless corners up through facets of massive El Capitan granite.  One crack to follow.  Always tipping, keeping the aspirant attentive and appreciative.  It was an aid climber’s dream.  And that was me.

    Royal had developed a strategy to use the recently developed jumar ascenders for bringing up the heavy haul bag.  “This system made hauling vastly easier, and the speed of an ascent could be increased with the second man jumaring a pitch at the same time the leader hauled the bag.  These would become the chosen methods for thousands of big-wall climbers to come.”  (Ament, Spirit of the Age)  So, in June 1964 we approached El Capitan with the intention of testing this system while making a two man ascent of El Cap and the second ascent of the Dihedral Wall.  The system worked well.  The route was spectacular.

    A bonus feature of this climb is the opportunity for hammock bivouacs.  Here, on our second night on the wall, my European style net hammock is suspended below Royal.  A lightweight duvet and cagoule ensure a sound and comfortable night’s sleep.